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Catch and release keeps fisheries healthy and gives every angler a chance at a trophy. But simply throwing a fish back isn’t enough — survival rates vary widely depending on how the fish was handled. Here’s how to give every fish you release the best chance of survival.

Why handling matters

Fish are stressed by the fight, air exposure, and rough handling — all of which deplete oxygen, build up lactic acid, and can cause internal injuries. A fish that swims away strongly can still die hours later from stress-related organ failure if it was handled badly. The goal is to minimize air time, maintain the fish’s slime coat, and return it to the water before it goes into shock.

The 10-second rule

Hold your breath when you lift the fish out of the water. When you need to breathe, the fish does too. Most fisheries biologists recommend keeping air exposure under 30 seconds for cold-water species like trout and bass in warm water; for tropical or stressed fish, even 10 seconds is plenty. If you need longer for a photo, keep the fish submerged between shots.

How to handle a fish correctly

• Wet your hands before touching the fish. Dry hands strip the slime coat, which protects against infection.
• Keep the fish horizontal. Holding a large fish vertically by the lip stresses the spine and internal organs. Support the body with your other hand under the belly.
• Don’t squeeze. Fish have soft internal organs close to the surface. A tight grip can cause internal damage that isn’t visible externally.
• Use a rubberized net. Knotted nylon nets strip slime and can remove scales. A rubber or silicone net is much gentler.
• Remove the hook quickly. Use needle-nose pliers or a hook remover. For a deeply swallowed hook, cut the line close to the hook — the hook will rust out faster than the fish can recover from the trauma of removal.

Reviving a tired fish

After a long fight, a fish may need help recovering before it can swim on its own. Hold it gently upright in the water, facing into any current, and let it breathe. In still water, move it slowly forward and back to push water through the gills. When the fish kicks and holds itself upright, let it go. Don’t release a fish belly-up or on its side — it’s not recovered and will likely die.

Circle hooks and barbless hooks

Circle hooks roll into the corner of the jaw rather than the throat, dramatically reducing deep hooking and making release easier. Crimping down the barb on any hook (or using pre-made barbless hooks) has almost no effect on landing rates but makes hook removal fast and nearly damage-free. Both are worth adopting if you release most of what you catch.

Know the weight without stressing the fish

You don’t need to hang a fish on a scale to know what it weighs. Our free fish weight calculator gives you a reliable estimate from length and girth alone — two quick measurements you can take while the fish is still in the water or over a wet net, then release it in seconds.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• How to Estimate a Fish’s Weight Without a Scale
• How to Set Your Fishing Drag the Right Way

Brook trout are the wild jewels of cold, clean streams — compact, beautiful, and surprisingly heavy for their length. This brook trout length-to-weight chart gives average weights for wild brookies, so you can size up your catch without keeping it out of the water.

Brook trout length-to-weight chart

These figures use weight (lb) = length cubed divided by 850 (length in inches). Brook trout are slightly deeper-bodied than rainbow or brown trout of the same length, which is reflected in the slightly lower divisor.

Why brook trout stay small in many streams

In most native brook trout streams, the typical fish runs 6–10 inches. Brook trout are sensitive to water temperature and can only thrive in cold, highly oxygenated water — environments that tend to be lower in nutrients and food production. In these streams, a 12-inch brookie is a genuinely big fish. In larger, more fertile rivers and in lake-connected systems (where sea-run or lake-run “coasters” are possible), brook trout can grow to several pounds.

Wild vs. hatchery brook trout

Hatchery brook trout stocked into put-and-take fisheries are often heavier than wild fish of the same length, fed on pellets in a low-activity environment. Wild fish from fast, cold streams burn more energy and tend to be leaner. The chart above is most accurate for wild fish; stocked fish may run 10–15% heavier.

Get a weight tailored to your fish

For a more precise estimate, measure length and girth and use our free fish weight calculator — it applies the length-and-girth formula to account for how deep-bodied your individual fish is.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Rainbow Trout Length to Weight Chart
• The Best Water Temperature for Every Gamefish

White crappie are close relatives of black crappie but tend to be slightly longer and leaner. This white crappie length-to-weight chart gives average weights you can use right at the water — especially useful when you’re trying to decide if your fish meets a slot limit or a tournament minimum.

White crappie length-to-weight chart

These figures use weight (lb) = length cubed divided by 1,800 (length in inches), which reflects white crappie’s slightly leaner body compared to black crappie and matches published fisheries data well.

White crappie vs. black crappie weight

At the same length, black crappie are typically heavier than white crappie because they have a deeper, more rounded body. The difference isn’t dramatic — a few tenths of a pound at most — but it’s enough that you should use the right chart for the right species. If you’re unsure which you have: black crappie have a pattern of scattered spots, while white crappie have vertical bars on their sides and tend to be slightly paler.

Why your fish may weigh more or less

A chart can only show an average. White crappie from highly productive, well-managed lakes run heavier than the table suggests; fish from crowded or low-fertility waters run lean. Seasonal factors matter too — crappie bulk up before the spawn and are among the heaviest they’ll be all year in early spring. After spawning, they tend to slim down until midsummer feeding picks back up.

Get a weight tailored to your fish

For a number matched to your exact fish, measure both length and girth and use our free fish weight calculator — it applies the proven length-and-girth formula and accounts for how heavy-bodied your specific fish is.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Black Crappie Length to Weight Chart
• Bluegill Length to Weight Chart

Rain puts a lot of anglers off the water — which is exactly why it’s worth fishing. Rain changes conditions in ways that often improve the bite, and with the right approach, a rainy day can be one of the most productive trips of the season.

Why rain often turns fish on

Rain breaking the water surface breaks up light and disrupts the mirror effect that makes shallow fish spooky. Predators that would hold in deeper water or tight to cover on a bright day move into the shallows to feed. Rain also washes insects and baitfish off banks and into the water, triggering an opportunistic feeding response — especially along shorelines and the mouths of small tributaries that come alive after rain.

Before the storm vs. during vs. after

Where to fish in the rain

During light rain, fish move shallow — target banks, weededges, and the upper end of bays. In heavier rain with significant runoff, any creek mouth or drainage flowing into the main body of water becomes a magnet. Baitfish concentrate there, and predators follow. In rivers, rising water pushes fish out of the main current into eddies and slack-water pockets — look for anything that blocks the current flow.

Best baits and lures for rainy conditions

Noise and vibration help fish find lures in broken, rippled water — spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, and rattling crankbaits all work well. Topwater lures can be surprisingly effective in light rain when bass are in the shallows; the pattering rain on the surface masks the lure’s commotion and gives fish confidence to commit. In muddy water from heavy runoff, go to bright colors (chartreuse, white, orange) and baits that move a lot of water, so fish can find them by their lateral line.

Safety on the water

Light rain is fine to fish through. Thunder or lightning means get off the water immediately — a fishing rod is a perfect lightning conductor. Watch for rapidly rising water in rivers and streams, which can become dangerous in minutes during heavy rain. Check the forecast before heading out and have a plan for getting off the water quickly if conditions change.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Why Dawn and Dusk Are the Best Times to Fish
• The Best Water Temperature for Every Gamefish

Anglers have tracked the moon for centuries, and fisheries research backs them up — the moon does affect feeding activity. The key is understanding which phase matters, and what it means for the fish you’re targeting.

How the moon affects fish

The moon exerts gravitational pull on water, driving tides in saltwater and — to a lesser extent — affecting currents and pressure in freshwater. More importantly, the lunar cycle controls light levels at night. A full moon lights up shallow water all night long, which changes how and where baitfish and predators move. Fish that are sensitive to light tend to move deeper or feed more cautiously under a bright full moon; those same fish may go on a feeding binge the night before or after the peak.

The four phases and what they mean for fishing

In freshwater, the new moon and days around it are consistently cited as the most productive period. In saltwater, tidal movement driven by the full and new moons often produces the best bite.

Solunar tables

Solunar theory, developed by John Alden Knight in the 1930s, predicts daily feeding windows based on the moon’s position overhead or underfoot. The idea is that fish feed most actively during four windows each day: two major periods (about two hours each, when the moon is directly overhead or directly below) and two minor periods (about one hour each, at the moon’s rise and set). Independent research has found statistical support for increased feeding activity around these windows, though weather, temperature, and season can override them.

How to use moon phases practically

Moon phase is one factor, not the whole picture. A flat-calm new moon morning is ideal; a new moon morning after a cold front with howling wind is not. Use the moon to pick the best window within a week, then let weather and water conditions narrow it to the best day, and let the solunar times narrow it to the best hour. All three lined up together produce the most reliable bites.

Time your trip to sunrise and sunset too

The most reliable daily feeding windows are still tied to light — specifically the low-light periods around dawn and dusk. Our free sunrise and sunset tool gives the precise sun times and prime bite windows for your location and date, so you can layer moon phase on top of the daily light patterns for the highest-percentage fishing windows.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Why Dawn and Dusk Are the Best Times to Fish
• The Best Water Temperature for Every Gamefish

Putting line on a spinning reel the wrong way is one of the most common causes of annoying line twist — the coils of line that come off the spool and tangle at the worst possible moment. The fix is simple: load the line with the spool lying flat. Here’s how to do it right.

What you’ll need

• Spinning reel mounted on a rod
• New line on a spool
• A friend or a pencil through the line spool (optional, but helpful)

How to spool a spinning reel — step by step

• Step 1: Open the bail on the reel. Thread the tag end of the new line through the rod guides and tie it to the spool arbor with an arbor knot (two overhand knots work fine). Close the bail.
• Step 2: Lay the line spool flat on the floor — label side up. This is the critical step. Spinning reels lay line onto the spool in a specific direction, and laying the supply spool flat lets line come off with the correct twist orientation.
• Step 3: Hold the rod tip up, pinch the line lightly between your thumb and finger for tension, and turn the reel handle slowly. Watch the line as it feeds in — if you see loops forming, flip the supply spool over. The loops mean the line was coming off in the wrong direction.
• Step 4: Wind line onto the reel under light, steady tension. Fill the spool to within about 1/8 inch of the rim — underfilling causes poor casting distance; overfilling causes wind knots and tangles.
• Step 5: Once filled, cut the line from the supply spool, rig up your terminal tackle, and you’re ready to fish.

Why line twist happens

Spinning reels rotate the bail around a stationary spool. Every turn of the handle adds a small twist to the line. If you load the line in the wrong direction, these twists stack up — and after a few hundred casts you have a spool full of twisted, coiling line. The flat-spool method cancels out this twist as you load, so each turn of the handle takes off the same twist that going on the spool put in.

How much line to spool

For most spinning applications, 150–200 yards is more than enough. If your reel holds more than that, use monofilament backing on the arbor before adding your main line — cheap mono backing fills the spool without wasting expensive braid or fluorocarbon. Our free reel line capacity calculator can tell you exactly how much of any line will fit on your reel based on its rated capacity and the diameter of the new line.

Mono vs. braid on spinning reels

Monofilament is forgiving — it stretches, ties easily, and tolerates imperfect spooling. Braid is thinner for its strength, so you fit more on the spool, but it has no memory and can slip on an empty spool arbor. Always back braid with a short length of mono tied to the arbor first, then connect your braid with a uni knot. Fluorocarbon is a poor main line for spinning reels because its stiffness causes coiling and poor casting; use it as a leader tied to braid or mono instead.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Braid vs Mono: How Much Line Really Fits on Your Reel
• How to Set Your Fishing Drag the Right Way

Hook size affects more than just whether a fish stays on the line. Too big and small fish can’t take it in; too small and a big fish throws it easily or the point can’t penetrate. Here’s how to match hook size to species, bait, and technique.

How hook sizing works

Hook sizes follow a numbering system that runs in two directions. Sizes 1 through 32 get smaller as the number gets bigger — a size 1 is much larger than a size 32. Once you pass size 1, the system reverses: sizes are labeled 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 (said “one aught,” “two aught”) and so on, getting larger as the number increases. A 4/0 hook is bigger than a 2/0, which is bigger than a size 1.

Hook size by species

These are starting points. Hook size should also match the bait and the specific technique — not just the fish.

Match hook size to bait

The hook should be proportionate to the bait, not just the fish. A tiny hook on a big chunk of cut bait gets buried and won’t penetrate; a large hook on a small worm kills the bait’s action and looks unnatural. A good rule: the hook’s gap (the distance from the point to the shank) should be at least as wide as the thickest part of the bait. For live bait like minnows and worms, use the smallest hook that holds the bait securely without killing it immediately.

Hook styles matter as much as size

Within any size, hooks come in dozens of styles. Wide-gap hooks give more clearance for soft plastic lures. Circle hooks roll into the corner of the mouth rather than the throat, making them ideal for catch-and-release and live-bait fishing. Octopus hooks are short-shanked and good for threading worms or dough bait. Aberdeen hooks have a fine wire that’s easy to bend open to remove without killing small panfish. Pick the style for your specific method first, then size it to your target species.

When in doubt, go smaller

Experienced anglers almost always say the same thing: most beginners fish with hooks that are too big. A smaller hook penetrates more easily, is harder for the fish to feel and reject, and doesn’t require as powerful a hookset. If you’re missing fish or they’re short-striking, dropping down one hook size is often the fastest fix.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• How to Tie the Palomar Knot
• How to Set Your Fishing Drag the Right Way

The Palomar knot is one of the strongest and most reliable knots in fishing. It works with monofilament, fluorocarbon, and braid, holds close to 100% of the line’s rated strength when tied correctly, and takes about 30 seconds to learn. If you only know one fishing knot, make it this one.

How to tie the Palomar knot — step by step

• Step 1: Double about 6 inches of line to form a loop. Pass the loop through the eye of the hook.
• Step 2: Tie a simple overhand knot with the doubled line — leave the hook hanging loose at the bottom. Don’t tighten it yet.
• Step 3: Pass the loop over the hook completely, so the loop slides down and sits behind the hook’s eye.
• Step 4: Pull both the tag end and the standing line to tighten. Wet the knot first, then seat it firmly against the eye of the hook.
• Step 5: Trim the tag end close.

Why the Palomar is so strong

Most knots weaken line by creating a tight bend at one point — that pinch point is where the line breaks. The Palomar avoids this by wrapping doubled line through the eye, distributing the load across two strands instead of one. When tied and seated correctly, it regularly tests at 95–100% of the line’s rated strength in pull tests, which is hard to beat for a knot this simple.

Palomar on braid — one extra step

Braid is very slippery, and a standard Palomar can occasionally slip under hard load. When using braid, pass the loop through the hook eye twice before tying the overhand knot. This double-pass version is sometimes called the Double Palomar and eliminates the slippage issue without adding much complexity.

Common mistakes

• Not wetting the knot before tightening. Dry line generates heat when cinched and weakens the knot. Always wet it.
• Tying with too short a loop. If the loop is too short, you can’t pass it over the hook easily, and the knot won’t seat properly. Use at least 5–6 inches of doubled line.
• Passing the loop over only part of the hook. The loop must clear the entire hook — point, bend, and all — to seat correctly.

When to use a different knot

The Palomar is nearly universal, but it has two limitations. First, it doesn’t work on lures with two hooks (like treble-hook crankbaits) because passing the loop over two hooks at once is awkward. Second, when fishing with a leader, you’ll need a line-to-line knot (like an FG or double uni) to join the sections — the Palomar is a terminal knot for attaching line to a hook or lure.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• How to Set Your Fishing Drag the Right Way
• Braid vs Mono: How Much Line Really Fits on Your Reel

Yellow perch are a favourite pan-fish across the Great Lakes and Midwest, and knowing what your catch weighs is half the fun of a good perch bite. This yellow perch length-to-weight chart gives quick weight estimates by length for fish in average condition.

Yellow perch length-to-weight chart

These figures use weight (lb) = length cubed divided by 2,000 (length in inches), which matches widely published yellow perch data — roughly half a pound at 10 inches and over a pound at 13 inches.

Why your fish may weigh more or less

A chart can only show an average. Yellow perch in highly productive lakes — where forage is abundant and the population isn’t overcrowded — tend to be deep-bodied and can outweigh the chart by 10–15% for their length. In heavily fished lakes where perch compete for limited food, fish often run lean. Perch in the same lake will also vary seasonally: fish bulk up before and after spawn and may slim down during spawning itself.

What counts as a “jumbo” perch

The threshold varies by region, but most anglers use 10–12 inches as the marker for a jumbo yellow perch — big enough for a worthwhile fillet. A fish at the top of the table (13–14 inches) is a genuine trophy in most waters. In the Great Lakes and in large, productive northern lakes, fish in that range appear regularly; in smaller ponds, a 10-inch perch can be the fish of the trip.

Get a weight tailored to your fish

For a more precise estimate, measure length and girth and use our free fish weight calculator — it applies the proven length-and-girth formula and returns a weight in pounds, ounces, and kilograms.

Related from Fishing Toolbox

• Black Crappie Length to Weight Chart
• Bluegill Length to Weight Chart