Category: Guides

  • Bluegill Length to Weight Chart

    Bluegill Length to Weight Chart

    Is that a true dinner-plate bull? This bluegill length-to-weight chart shows the average weight for bluegill of each length, so you can size up your panfish at a glance — handy when you’re deciding which go in the bucket for the fry.

    Bluegill length-to-weight chart

    LengthAverage weight
    6″0.16 lb
    7″0.27 lb
    8″0.42 lb
    9″0.62 lb
    10″0.89 lb
    11″1.21 lb
    12″1.62 lb

    These figures follow published In-Fisherman bluegill data for a fish in average condition — roughly half a pound at 8 inches and over a pound at 11 inches. Bluegill are deep-bodied, so a thick, healthy fish can beat the chart.

    What’s an average bluegill — and what’s a trophy?

    Most bluegill caught run 6–9 inches and well under a pound (often 4–10 oz). The widely cited trophy benchmark is 10 inches — and it takes a bluegill of about 10.5 inches to break the 1-pound mark, so a true 10-inch/1-lb “bull” is a genuinely big fish. The all-tackle record is a remarkable 4 lb 12 oz fish from Ketona Lake, Alabama, in 1950 — reportedly 15 inches long with a 18-inch girth, and one of the oldest records in the book.

    Put a number on your exact fish (worked example)

    Bluegill are round, deep-bodied fish, so girth adds up fast:

    Weight (lb) = Length × Girth² ÷ 800

    A 10-inch bluegill with a 9-inch girth comes out to 10 × 9 × 9 ÷ 800 = 1.0 lb — right at trophy weight, slightly over the 0.89 lb chart average because it’s a deep-bodied bull. Measure both and use the free fish weight calculator; details in how to estimate a fish’s weight.

    Why two bluegill of the same length weigh differently

    Body depth is everything with bluegill — a thick, healthy bull from a well-managed lake dramatically outweighs a stunted fish from an overcrowded pond of the same length. Pre-spawn fish are heaviest, and productive water grows deeper-bodied fish.

    Where and when to find bigger bluegill

    Bluegill hold in warm, quiet water — ponds, lakes, reservoirs, and slow backwaters — over sand, mud, or gravel with plenty of vegetation for cover, ideally 65–80°F. The best fast action comes late spring through summer when colonies fan out spawning beds in the shallows. ID tip: look for the solid black ear flap and a dark blotch at the rear of the soft dorsal fin.

    Bluegill weight FAQ

    How big is a 1-pound bluegill? About 10.5 inches — a genuine trophy for the species.

    What’s a trophy bluegill? 10 inches is the classic benchmark; anything over a pound is a bull.

    Why is my bluegill heavier than the chart? Deep-bodied fish from fertile water beat length-only averages. Measure girth with the calculator for a true number.

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  • Channel Catfish Length to Weight Chart

    Channel Catfish Length to Weight Chart

    Channel cats pack on weight as they grow. This channel catfish length-to-weight chart gives average weights by length so you can estimate your catch without a scale — useful for everything from a pond eater to a reservoir bruiser.

    Channel Catfish length-to-weight chart

    LengthAverage weight
    14″1.12 lb
    16″1.67 lb
    18″2.38 lb
    20″3.27 lb
    22″4.35 lb
    24″5.64 lb
    26″7.18 lb
    28″8.96 lb
    30″11 lb
    32″13.4 lb
    34″16.1 lb
    36″19 lb

    These values use weight (lb) = length³ ÷ 2,450 (length in inches) for a channel catfish in average condition. River fish often run a little lighter than lake fish of the same length because of current.

    What’s an average channel cat — and what’s a trophy?

    Most channel cats caught are modest — around 12–24 inches (average ~16 inches) and 1–5 pounds in rivers and streams. In reservoirs and lakes they grow much larger, and 10 lb+ fish are fairly common there. A 10–20+ lb fish, or roughly 30+ inches, is widely considered a trophy (an angler convention, not an official mark). The IGFA all-tackle record is a 58-pounder from South Carolina’s Santee-Cooper Reservoir in 1964.

    Put a number on your exact fish (worked example)

    Weight (lb) = Length × Girth² ÷ 800

    A 30-inch channel cat with an 18-inch girth works out to 30 × 18 × 18 ÷ 800 = 12.2 lb, right around the 11 lb chart average for a well-fed fish. Measure both and use the free fish weight calculator; see how to estimate a fish’s weight.

    Why two channel cats of the same length weigh differently

    Reservoir cats with abundant forage grow deep-bodied and heavy; river fish fighting current often run leaner at the same length. Pre-spawn females carrying eggs peak in early summer. Girth captures all of it.

    Where and when to find bigger channel catfish

    Channel cats are extremely adaptable — rivers, creeks, lakes, reservoirs, ponds — and relate to structure like riprap, timber, holes, and dam tailraces. They hold deep and cool by day and move shallow to feed at dusk and overnight, when scent baits shine. Fun fact: their taste buds cover their whole body (they’re essentially a “swimming tongue”), which is exactly why stink and cut baits work so well. ID by the deeply forked tail and scattered dark spots (spots fade in big old fish).

    Channel catfish weight FAQ

    How much does a 30-inch channel catfish weigh? About 11 pounds on average; a fat reservoir fish can top 12.

    What’s a trophy channel cat? Roughly 10–20 lb or 30+ inches.

    When’s the best time to catch them? Dusk and after dark, using scent-heavy baits near structure.

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  • How to Read a Lake: Finding Fish Without a Fish Finder

    A fish finder is a great tool, but fish were being caught long before they existed. Understanding lake structure, cover, and seasonal patterns lets you narrow down where fish will be — often before you make your first cast. Here’s how to read a lake the old-fashioned way.

    Start with a map

    Most lakes have contour maps (bathymetric charts) available through state fish and wildlife agencies, fishing apps, or the marina. These show depth contours, underwater points, humps, channels, and basins — all fish-holding structure. Before you ever get on the water, mark the most promising spots: depth transitions (where the bottom drops quickly), points extending into deeper water, inside corners of coves, and saddles between two humps.

    What fish look for

    Fish position themselves where three needs overlap: food, cover, and comfort (the right water temperature and oxygen level). In practice, this means they’ll be near cover that holds baitfish — weededges, fallen trees, dock pilings, bridge abutments, rock piles — at a depth where the water temperature is in their preferred range. The transition zone where the temperature changes is often a productive horizontal band; in summer that band is usually 15–25 feet down in most lakes.

    Reading the shoreline

    The shoreline tells you a lot about what’s happening underwater. A hard, rocky point on shore usually continues as a rocky point below the surface — classic ambush cover for predators. A muddy, flat bank usually means a flat, featureless bottom — lower odds. Visible weed edges, fallen timber, and overhanging banks all hold fish in the right conditions. Any place where two different types of bottom or cover meet is a prime target.

    Seasonal patterns to follow

    SeasonWhere to look
    SpringShallow bays, dark-bottomed flats, creek arms — fish move shallow to spawn
    Early summerWeededges, points, transitions from shallow to deep
    MidsummerDeeper structure at the thermocline — except at dawn and dusk
    FallShallows again as water cools — fish chase baitfish onto flats
    WinterDeepest basins with stable temperature; slow down presentations

    Use water temperature as a guide

    Each species has a preferred temperature range, and fish will position themselves at the depth where that temperature exists. Our free water temperature species guide shows which gamefish are in their prime, active, or slow range for any water temperature — a quick way to know what to target before you choose where to fish.

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  • Catch and Release Fishing: How to Do It Right

    Catch and release keeps fisheries healthy and gives every angler a chance at a trophy. But simply throwing a fish back isn’t enough — survival rates vary widely depending on how the fish was handled. Here’s how to give every fish you release the best chance of survival.

    Why handling matters

    Fish are stressed by the fight, air exposure, and rough handling — all of which deplete oxygen, build up lactic acid, and can cause internal injuries. A fish that swims away strongly can still die hours later from stress-related organ failure if it was handled badly. The goal is to minimize air time, maintain the fish’s slime coat, and return it to the water before it goes into shock.

    The 10-second rule

    Hold your breath when you lift the fish out of the water. When you need to breathe, the fish does too. Most fisheries biologists recommend keeping air exposure under 30 seconds for cold-water species like trout and bass in warm water; for tropical or stressed fish, even 10 seconds is plenty. If you need longer for a photo, keep the fish submerged between shots.

    How to handle a fish correctly

    • Wet your hands before touching the fish. Dry hands strip the slime coat, which protects against infection.
    • Keep the fish horizontal. Holding a large fish vertically by the lip stresses the spine and internal organs. Support the body with your other hand under the belly.
    • Don’t squeeze. Fish have soft internal organs close to the surface. A tight grip can cause internal damage that isn’t visible externally.
    • Use a rubberized net. Knotted nylon nets strip slime and can remove scales. A rubber or silicone net is much gentler.
    • Remove the hook quickly. Use needle-nose pliers or a hook remover. For a deeply swallowed hook, cut the line close to the hook — the hook will rust out faster than the fish can recover from the trauma of removal.

    Reviving a tired fish

    After a long fight, a fish may need help recovering before it can swim on its own. Hold it gently upright in the water, facing into any current, and let it breathe. In still water, move it slowly forward and back to push water through the gills. When the fish kicks and holds itself upright, let it go. Don’t release a fish belly-up or on its side — it’s not recovered and will likely die.

    Circle hooks and barbless hooks

    Circle hooks roll into the corner of the jaw rather than the throat, dramatically reducing deep hooking and making release easier. Crimping down the barb on any hook (or using pre-made barbless hooks) has almost no effect on landing rates but makes hook removal fast and nearly damage-free. Both are worth adopting if you release most of what you catch.

    Know the weight without stressing the fish

    You don’t need to hang a fish on a scale to know what it weighs. Our free fish weight calculator gives you a reliable estimate from length and girth alone — two quick measurements you can take while the fish is still in the water or over a wet net, then release it in seconds.

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  • White Crappie Length to Weight Chart

    White crappie are close relatives of black crappie but tend to be slightly longer and leaner. This white crappie length-to-weight chart gives average weights you can use right at the water — especially handy when you’re deciding if a fish meets a slot limit or tournament minimum.

    White crappie length-to-weight chart

    These figures use weight (lb) = length³ ÷ 1,800 (length in inches), which reflects white crappie’s slightly leaner body compared to black crappie and matches published fisheries data well.

    LengthAverage weight
    8″0.28 lb
    9″0.41 lb
    10″0.56 lb
    11″0.74 lb
    12″0.96 lb
    13″1.22 lb
    14″1.52 lb
    15″1.88 lb

    What’s an average white crappie — and what’s a trophy?

    Practical sizes match black crappie: most run 8–12 inches and about ½ to 1 pound, with 13–15 inches and ~2 pounds the trophy/slab benchmark (an angler convention, with many state citations near 15 inches). The white crappie record is 5 lb 3 oz, caught below Enid Dam in Mississippi in 1957 — a mark that has stood for nearly 70 years, and just 4 ounces shy of the black crappie record.

    White crappie vs. black crappie

    At the same length, black crappie are typically a few tenths of a pound heavier because they have a deeper, more rounded body — which is why we use a separate chart for each. ID tip: white crappie have only 5–6 dorsal spines and show distinct vertical bars on a paler, more elongated body, versus the black crappie’s random speckling. Dorsal-spine count is the definitive check.

    Put a number on your exact fish (worked example)

    Weight (lb) = Length × Girth² ÷ 800

    A 13-inch white crappie with a 9-inch girth comes out to 13 × 9 × 9 ÷ 800 = 1.3 lb, a touch over the 1.22 lb chart average. Measure length and girth and let the free fish weight calculator handle it; see how to estimate a fish’s weight.

    Why your fish may weigh more or less

    White crappie from highly productive, well-managed lakes run heavier than the table; fish from crowded or low-fertility water run lean. Crappie bulk up before the spawn and are among the heaviest they’ll be all year in early spring, then slim down until midsummer feeding picks back up.

    Where and when to find bigger white crappie

    White crappie tolerate murkier, more turbid water better than black crappie and favor shallows with woody cover — brush and timber in rivers and reservoirs. They lean more heavily on small baitfish in their diet. Spring pre-spawn in stained water (~62–68°F) is the prime window.

    White crappie weight FAQ

    How much does a 14-inch white crappie weigh? About 1.5 pounds in average condition.

    Is a white crappie lighter than a black crappie? Slightly, at the same length — a leaner body.

    How do I tell them apart? Count dorsal spines: white have 5–6 and vertical bars; black have 7–8 and scattered spots.

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  • Brook Trout Length to Weight Chart

    Brook trout are the wild jewels of cold, clean streams — compact, beautiful, and worth handling fast for a quick release. This brook trout length-to-weight chart gives average weights for wild brookies, so you can size up your catch without keeping it out of the water.

    Brook trout length-to-weight chart

    These figures use weight (lb) = length³ ÷ 2,700 (length in inches). Brook trout are slightly deeper-bodied than rainbow trout, so the divisor is a touch lower than for rainbows.

    LengthAverage weight
    6″0.08 lb
    7″0.13 lb
    8″0.19 lb
    9″0.27 lb
    10″0.37 lb
    12″0.64 lb
    14″1.02 lb
    16″1.52 lb
    18″2.16 lb

    What’s an average brook trout — and what’s a trophy?

    Brook trout size is highly regional. In small native Appalachian headwater streams, a typical adult is only 6–10 inches and a 12-inch brookie is a genuine trophy. In larger rivers, lakes, and northern (Canadian) systems — including lake-run “coasters” — they reach several pounds, and there an 18-inch or 3–5 lb fish is the trophy mark. The IGFA all-tackle record is 14 lb 8 oz, caught in Ontario’s Nipigon River in 1915 — one of the oldest records in the sport (some accounts say the fish was even heavier before the long trip to be weighed).

    Put a number on your exact fish (worked example)

    Because brook trout size varies so much by water, girth is the honest way to weigh yours:

    Weight (lb) = Length × Girth² ÷ 800

    A wild 12-inch brookie with a 7-inch girth works out to 12 × 7 × 7 ÷ 800 = 0.74 lb — a bit above the 0.64 lb length-only average for a hard-bodied stream fish. Measure both and use the free fish weight calculator for a number that fits your fish, not just its length; see how to estimate a fish’s weight.

    Wild vs. hatchery brook trout

    Hatchery brookies raised on pellets in low-activity tanks are often 10–15% heavier than wild fish of the same length. Wild fish from fast, cold streams burn more energy and run leaner — another reason to trust girth over a length-only average.

    Where and when to find bigger brook trout

    Brook trout are the most cold- and clean-water-demanding of the common trout — clear, cold, well-oxygenated streams and lakes around 55–60°F, with shade, cover, and clean gravel. They die off in sustained water above ~72°F, which makes them an indicator of pristine water. Bigger fish live in larger, more fertile rivers and lake systems. ID: unmistakable worm-like (vermiculate) markings on the back, red spots with blue halos, and white-edged lower fins.

    Brook trout weight FAQ

    What’s a trophy brook trout? In small streams, 12 inches; in big rivers/lakes, 3–5 lb or 18+ inches.

    Why are stream brook trout so small? Cold, clean water tends to be low in nutrients, so growth is slow — a 10-incher can be several years old.

    Is a brook trout really a trout? Technically it’s a char, a close relative — but it fishes and tastes like the trout everyone knows.

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  • Moon Phase Fishing Guide: Does the Moon Really Affect the Bite?

    Anglers have tracked the moon for centuries, and fisheries research backs them up — the moon does affect feeding activity. The key is understanding which phase matters, and what it means for the fish you’re targeting.

    How the moon affects fish

    The moon exerts gravitational pull on water, driving tides in saltwater and — to a lesser extent — affecting currents and pressure in freshwater. More importantly, the lunar cycle controls light levels at night. A full moon lights up shallow water all night long, which changes how and where baitfish and predators move. Fish that are sensitive to light tend to move deeper or feed more cautiously under a bright full moon; those same fish may go on a feeding binge the night before or after the peak.

    The four phases and what they mean for fishing

    Moon phaseFishing tendency
    New moonOften excellent — dark nights push fish to feed harder in shallows
    First quarterGood — rising light, fish transitioning feeding windows
    Full moonVariable — saltwater fishing peaks; freshwater fish may feed at night and rest by day
    Last quarterGood — waning light, fish returning to shallow feeding patterns

    In freshwater, the new moon and days around it are consistently cited as the most productive period. In saltwater, tidal movement driven by the full and new moons often produces the best bite.

    Solunar tables

    Solunar theory, developed by John Alden Knight in the 1930s, predicts daily feeding windows based on the moon’s position overhead or underfoot. The idea is that fish feed most actively during four windows each day: two major periods (about two hours each, when the moon is directly overhead or directly below) and two minor periods (about one hour each, at the moon’s rise and set). Independent research has found statistical support for increased feeding activity around these windows, though weather, temperature, and season can override them.

    How to use moon phases practically

    Moon phase is one factor, not the whole picture. A flat-calm new moon morning is ideal; a new moon morning after a cold front with howling wind is not. Use the moon to pick the best window within a week, then let weather and water conditions narrow it to the best day, and let the solunar times narrow it to the best hour. All three lined up together produce the most reliable bites.

    Time your trip to sunrise and sunset too

    The most reliable daily feeding windows are still tied to light — specifically the low-light periods around dawn and dusk. Our free sunrise and sunset tool gives the precise sun times and prime bite windows for your location and date, so you can layer moon phase on top of the daily light patterns for the highest-percentage fishing windows.

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  • How to Fish in the Rain

    Rain puts a lot of anglers off the water — which is exactly why it’s worth fishing. Rain changes conditions in ways that often improve the bite, and with the right approach, a rainy day can be one of the most productive trips of the season.

    Why rain often turns fish on

    Rain breaking the water surface breaks up light and disrupts the mirror effect that makes shallow fish spooky. Predators that would hold in deeper water or tight to cover on a bright day move into the shallows to feed. Rain also washes insects and baitfish off banks and into the water, triggering an opportunistic feeding response — especially along shorelines and the mouths of small tributaries that come alive after rain.

    Before the storm vs. during vs. after

    TimingWhat to expect
    Before the rainOften excellent — dropping pressure triggers aggressive feeding
    During light rainVery good — low light, active fish in shallows
    During heavy rainMixed — runoff muddies water; fish may go deep or hold tight to structure
    Right after rainGood — water clears, fish resume feeding; check tributary mouths
    Post-front clearingTough — bright skies and rising pressure shut the bite down

    Where to fish in the rain

    During light rain, fish move shallow — target banks, weededges, and the upper end of bays. In heavier rain with significant runoff, any creek mouth or drainage flowing into the main body of water becomes a magnet. Baitfish concentrate there, and predators follow. In rivers, rising water pushes fish out of the main current into eddies and slack-water pockets — look for anything that blocks the current flow.

    Best baits and lures for rainy conditions

    Noise and vibration help fish find lures in broken, rippled water — spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, and rattling crankbaits all work well. Topwater lures can be surprisingly effective in light rain when bass are in the shallows; the pattering rain on the surface masks the lure’s commotion and gives fish confidence to commit. In muddy water from heavy runoff, go to bright colors (chartreuse, white, orange) and baits that move a lot of water, so fish can find them by their lateral line.

    Safety on the water

    Light rain is fine to fish through. Thunder or lightning means get off the water immediately — a fishing rod is a perfect lightning conductor. Watch for rapidly rising water in rivers and streams, which can become dangerous in minutes during heavy rain. Check the forecast before heading out and have a plan for getting off the water quickly if conditions change.

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  • How to Spool a Spinning Reel

    Putting line on a spinning reel the wrong way is one of the most common causes of annoying line twist — the coils of line that come off the spool and tangle at the worst possible moment. The fix is simple: load the line with the spool lying flat. Here’s how to do it right.

    What you’ll need

    • Spinning reel mounted on a rod
    • New line on a spool
    • A friend or a pencil through the line spool (optional, but helpful)

    How to spool a spinning reel — step by step

    • Step 1: Open the bail on the reel. Thread the tag end of the new line through the rod guides and tie it to the spool arbor with an arbor knot (two overhand knots work fine). Close the bail.
    • Step 2: Lay the line spool flat on the floor — label side up. This is the critical step. Spinning reels lay line onto the spool in a specific direction, and laying the supply spool flat lets line come off with the correct twist orientation.
    • Step 3: Hold the rod tip up, pinch the line lightly between your thumb and finger for tension, and turn the reel handle slowly. Watch the line as it feeds in — if you see loops forming, flip the supply spool over. The loops mean the line was coming off in the wrong direction.
    • Step 4: Wind line onto the reel under light, steady tension. Fill the spool to within about 1/8 inch of the rim — underfilling causes poor casting distance; overfilling causes wind knots and tangles.
    • Step 5: Once filled, cut the line from the supply spool, rig up your terminal tackle, and you’re ready to fish.

    Why line twist happens

    Spinning reels rotate the bail around a stationary spool. Every turn of the handle adds a small twist to the line. If you load the line in the wrong direction, these twists stack up — and after a few hundred casts you have a spool full of twisted, coiling line. The flat-spool method cancels out this twist as you load, so each turn of the handle takes off the same twist that going on the spool put in.

    How much line to spool

    For most spinning applications, 150–200 yards is more than enough. If your reel holds more than that, use monofilament backing on the arbor before adding your main line — cheap mono backing fills the spool without wasting expensive braid or fluorocarbon. Our free reel line capacity calculator can tell you exactly how much of any line will fit on your reel based on its rated capacity and the diameter of the new line.

    Mono vs. braid on spinning reels

    Monofilament is forgiving — it stretches, ties easily, and tolerates imperfect spooling. Braid is thinner for its strength, so you fit more on the spool, but it has no memory and can slip on an empty spool arbor. Always back braid with a short length of mono tied to the arbor first, then connect your braid with a uni knot. Fluorocarbon is a poor main line for spinning reels because its stiffness causes coiling and poor casting; use it as a leader tied to braid or mono instead.

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  • How to Choose the Right Fishing Hook Size

    Hook size affects more than just whether a fish stays on the line. Too big and small fish can’t take it in; too small and a big fish throws it easily or the point can’t penetrate. Here’s how to match hook size to species, bait, and technique.

    How hook sizing works

    Hook sizes follow a numbering system that runs in two directions. Sizes 1 through 32 get smaller as the number gets bigger — a size 1 is much larger than a size 32. Once you pass size 1, the system reverses: sizes are labeled 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 (said “one aught,” “two aught”) and so on, getting larger as the number increases. A 4/0 hook is bigger than a 2/0, which is bigger than a size 1.

    Hook size by species

    SpeciesCommon hook sizes
    Bluegill, sunfishSize 6–10
    CrappieSize 2–6
    Yellow perchSize 4–8
    Trout (stream)Size 10–16
    WalleyeSize 2–2/0
    Largemouth & smallmouth bassSize 1–4/0
    Channel catfishSize 2/0–5/0
    Northern pike, muskieSize 4/0–10/0
    Striped bassSize 2/0–6/0

    These are starting points. Hook size should also match the bait and the specific technique — not just the fish.

    Match hook size to bait

    The hook should be proportionate to the bait, not just the fish. A tiny hook on a big chunk of cut bait gets buried and won’t penetrate; a large hook on a small worm kills the bait’s action and looks unnatural. A good rule: the hook’s gap (the distance from the point to the shank) should be at least as wide as the thickest part of the bait. For live bait like minnows and worms, use the smallest hook that holds the bait securely without killing it immediately.

    Hook styles matter as much as size

    Within any size, hooks come in dozens of styles. Wide-gap hooks give more clearance for soft plastic lures. Circle hooks roll into the corner of the mouth rather than the throat, making them ideal for catch-and-release and live-bait fishing. Octopus hooks are short-shanked and good for threading worms or dough bait. Aberdeen hooks have a fine wire that’s easy to bend open to remove without killing small panfish. Pick the style for your specific method first, then size it to your target species.

    When in doubt, go smaller

    Experienced anglers almost always say the same thing: most beginners fish with hooks that are too big. A smaller hook penetrates more easily, is harder for the fish to feel and reject, and doesn’t require as powerful a hookset. If you’re missing fish or they’re short-striking, dropping down one hook size is often the fastest fix.

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